Furnace Leaking Water

Furnace Leaking Water

Causes Minor Flooding In Your Basement

Why Is My Furnace Leaking Water?

You just realised your furnace leaking water in your newly finished basement, and not sure why. Under no circumstance should you ever see water around your furnace. There is a sign that something is leaking and not draining properly. It could be a simple fix and to begin troubleshooting, you don’t have to go in a panic mode. Depending on the season, a furnace leaking water should have you inspect different places to find the trigger of the leak. Mainly, an overflowing evaporator drain pans used with furnace coils, air handler coils, mini splits, even dehumidifiers create lots of insurance claims. More often than not, the mini-flood results from lack of annual preventive maintenance: dirty coils, plugged drain lines, loss of charge mean lots of water with nowhere beneficial to go.

Furnace-Leaking-Water-Impressive-Climate-Control-Ottawa-400x500

Furnace-Leaking-Water

Why Is My Furnace Leaking Water In Summer?

  • Improper Insulation 

    During the cooling season, the indoor evaporator coil and the suction line sweats. The refrigerant lines should have a black insulation (armaflex), to keep the condensation from dripping. Sometimes if the insulation is missing or if it has open seems, it can cause dripping and obviously this is an easy fix. All armaflex joints should be butted-up tight and well taped.

  • Dirty Evaporator Coil

    Your air conditioner evaporator coil produces a lot of condensation (water) during the summer. Eventually this water runs down the coil into a drain pan, then out to the drain. Once drained water goes either into the ground, outside the house, or into a condensate pump. Then in turn, the pump takes the water either outside the house or into a plumbing drain. If the coil is dirty, then the water, instead of running down the coil, will hit the dirt, then drip onto the floor. This is one reason why the coil should be cleaned annually, not to mention for efficiency reasons. Sometimes the indoor coil can actually ice-up. And when the ice eventually melts, it drips onto the floor. Like water, you should never see ice anywhere on your system during the cooling season.

  • Clogged Evaporator Drain

    Now if you have a dirty coil, the water will mix with the dirt and the dirt will end up in the pan. A dirty drain pan will get clogged and water leaks will appear in the basement. The bottom of the trap is the most common source of a clog and it can be cleaned out with a long flexible cleaning brush. Keep in mind, it doesn’t take much dirt to clog a drain.

    And if your unit is in an attic (Such as High Velocity) or a finished basement, this can cause terrible damage. This is another reason why it is important to always have a good, clean, properly sized air filter, along with having annual inspections.

Why Is My Furnace Leaking Water In Winter?

Did you know that a high efficiency furnace with 100K BTU/H in natural gas will produce approximately two gallons (7.5 liters) of water during every hour of operation?

While many high efficiency units have condensate directed to a nearby floor drain, some condensing furnaces or boilers must utilise a condensate pump sending the liquid to a remote drain elsewhere in the building.

Sometimes the condensate is pumped to a sink, laundry tub, or even outside. Pumping condensate to a receptacle that can be stopped-up is inviting a flood creating property damage. Ask you installer to assure a secondary float switch is available. In the event of a condensate pump failure, the float switch will signal the control circuit to power down.

Tips On How To Prevent Minor Flooding!

  • Proper Installation

    Furnaces, water heaters, boilers and air handlers should be installed on a solid concrete base raising the appliance about two inches above the floor, providing some protection from minor flooding.

  • Install Float Switch

    Install a float switch in the evaporator coil secondary drain outlet.

  • Annual Maintenance

    It is better to have a licensed gas technician to inspect your drain pan, evaporator coil and vents. Plus blow out the drain lines and clean traps on every maintenance call.

I have no answers for Mother Nature’s wrath; destructive overland flooding is a fact of life. However, on the HVAC side, it is important that we do all we can to prevent as much water damage as possible. Our Licensed gas fitters use standard industry techniques and materials when on maintenance calls. They educate home owners to better maintain their HVAC systems and offer protective devices where possible.


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Energy Efficiency Rating

Energy Efficiency Rating

EER vs SEER

Energy Efficiency Rating, What It Means!

Energy Efficiency Rating

Two of the more commonly used energy efficiency rating for cooling performance of air conditioners and heat pumps are Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) and Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER).

These ratings can be used to compare energy efficiencies for different models of equipment. What these ratings actually mean, and what is the main difference between EER and SEER?

To put it simply, EER and SEER are used to express the ratios of output to input for cooling system. As such, a more efficient cooling system will have higher EER and SEER ratings.

The fundamental difference between EER and SEER is that EER tells you the energy efficiency of a system at one set of operating conditions, whereas SEER reflects the overall efficiency of the system on seasonal basis.

How is Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) calculated?

EER is the average rate of space cooling (in BTU/H), divided by the power input (in watts) at given set of operating conditions. For example, a 16 EER-rated air conditioner delivers cooling at the rate of 16 BTU/H for every watt of input power at the specified rated conditions.

Most air conditioner and heat pump manufacturers in North American participate in AHRI’s voluntary certification program and ANSI/AHRI 210/240 tested and certified EER ratings based on 80 F indoor temperature and 95 F outdoor air temperature when systems are running at full load.

For instance, when a manufacturer advertises 14 EER-rated air conditioner, it implies that the system can cool down a conditioned space at the rate of 14 BTU/H for every watt of input power when it is tested for full operation at 80 F indoor and 95 F outdoor air temperature. EER does not tell you about the overall performance of the unit over a cooling season.

What is SEER rating?

To express the annual performance of an air conditioner or heat pump, SEER is used. SEER is the total heat removed during the annual cooling season, in BTU, divided by the total electrical energy consumed, in watt-hours (w*h), by an air conditioner or heat pump over the same season.

In other words, an air conditioner with 18 SEER is expected to remove 18 BTU of heat annually for every watt-hour of electrical energy consumed over the cooling season. The higher SEER value indicates that the air conditioner or heat pump operates more efficiently over the cooling season.

Does SEER Change Over Time?

It should be noted that EER and SEER are measured and calculated strictly under laboratory settings, and these lab testing conditions may not be the true representation of the actual operating conditions in the field. This may account for discrepancies between manufacturers’ published EER and SEER, and actual field performance ratings. To put this more simple, when you read the manufacturer’s home owner’s manual, it recommends to have an annual maintenance and inspection done on your cooling system. Most common problems with air conditioners over time, they may have dirt built up or a even a slight  gas leak gone undetected. When a technician performs a maintenance inspection they can manually see if the unit is working efficiency using their gauge. If any leaks or deficiencies are detected and corrected, it can drastically improve your air conditioner’s Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating.

NOTE To Reader

Be sure to annually tune-up your AC for best possible performance plus savings on your utility bills.



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Hybrid Heat Pump

Hybrid Heat Pump

How To Reduce Energy Costs

What is a Hybrid Heat Pump

Hybrid heat pump or hybrid air source heat pump is a system that reacts and adjusts according to temperatures. This is by far, the most efficient energy saving method available to heat or cool a home. It can be a fuel-saving alternative to traditional heating and cooling systems in that it combines a furnace with a heat pump, rather than an air conditioner.

A hybrid heat pump normally consists of an outdoor air source heat pump connected to an indoor coil or air handler. The indoor unit could be a gas furnace, oil furnace, electric furnace or an air handler. An outdoor heat pump, connected to an air handler containing electric strip heaters downstream of the indoor coil, is known as an all-electric hybrid system.

Hybrid Heat Pump

Hybrid-Heat-Pump

What is the point of a Hybrid Heat Pump System?

The point of a hybrid heat pump system is to reduce operating costs while maintaining year-round comfort conditions. The industry is evolving and so is the hybrid technology. For example, the Unico System small duct high velocity heat pumps feature inverter drive outdoor units connected to specialised air handlers with electric auxiliary heat or even a hot water coil. Geothermal heat pumps with electric heat prove that air-to-air heat pumps are not the only hybrid option on the market.

Declining heat output in Canada’s cold climate has always plagued hybrid heat pumps. Better compressors, improved outdoor and indoor coils, TXV or EEV refrigerant metering, system matching and more sophisticated controls (especially defrost control) have contributed greatly to improving the performance and reliability of hybrids, but most significantly advances have been made lately.

How does a Hybrid Heat Pump work?

Use your dual-fuel thermostat or control to decide when to shift from heat pump heating to all electric operation mode. Conventional air source heat pumps suffer from declining heating capacity as the outdoor temperature plummets, thus two models of operation for add-on hybrids have traditional been available. First one is a non-restricted mode and the second one is the restricted mode. Restricted mode is probably the best mode for cold climates. Using an outdoor temperature sensor, the installer sets an outdoor temperature lockout point so that compressor is disabled below that point. Only auxiliary heat functions below lockout. For example; your installed sets the lockout at 40F. If outside temperatures goes below that of the settings your outside unit stops operating and auxiliary heating kicks in to warm up the house.

How does a Hybrid Heat Pump save energy?

By using an air source heat pump could help to keep operating costs lower. Sizing the unit into an appropriate duct system, finding a proper location of the outdoor unit, and understanding how the auxiliary system operates, to say the least. Balance point is an effective means of determining lockout temperatures in any given application. In order to determine a balance point temperature, the heating professional must perform a shell heat loss calculation and have the manufacturer applied heating performance data for the AHRI rated hybrid system on-hand to be applied in any particular application.

What is the alternative choice to conventional heat pump system?

Introducing cold climate ductless heat pumps using dense vapour injected compressor has changed everything. The best units can maintain 100 percent heating output down to -4F. As a homeowner where you have no access to natural gas a ductless heat pump system would provide heating, and cost savings over straight electrical, or even propane and oil heat. The cold climate unit, in true hybrid fashion, can signal a baseboard heater to operate as needed. Mitsubishi Electric, Panasonic, Haier, Samsung and a host of other manufacturer’s have cold climate hybrids on the market. Better yet, is the hyper heat pump technology provides excellent performance at outdoor temperatures as low as -13F (-25C).

Then there are geothermal hybrid systems with an advantage over air source heat pumps because there is nothing outside to worry about. Geothermal heat pumps produce constant amount of heat at or near full capacity regardless of outdoor temperatures.

The future of Hybrid Heat Pumps!

The market still needs hybrid heat pumps, especially geothermal and cold climate models. When better-insulated residential housing becomes the norm, a small hybrid with maybe a baseboard or two for backup will be the new normal in residential housing. Specially the cold climate heat pumps also called hyper heat pumps will be a popular choice more than ever. It has been a long time coming.



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